Steel Away to the Iron City
By Jay DiEugenio
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Sports travel is booming. More and more people every year are discovering that they can stretch a weekend out a day or two and enjoy a mini-vacation while catching a game in an amazing city. And if you're like me, you want to get the total experience - soak up as much of the local flavor as you can. You want to see the sites, sample the regional cuisine, and party with the best tailgaters.
Over the last four years I've had the opportunity to visit some of the great cities in America during my travels. There have been some amazing places, with some great history, but I have to tell you, Pittsburgh is one of the most surprising. Before going to Pittsburgh, my only impression was "industrial." You know, I pictured lots of factories, smoke and steel. And, it used to be that way. But in recent years Pittsburgh has been revitalized and is now a thriving business center, tourist destination and one of the best tailgating towns this country has to offer.
Tailgaters like to plan an away trip or two every season to show their passion for the home team while tailgating at a new stadium, and a visit to Pittsburgh - and a game at Heinz Field - should definitely be on your list. "The City of Bridges" is located where the Allegheny and the Monongahely Rivers meet to form the Ohio River and has 446 bridges that connect the downtown district and the North Shore. Heinz Field is located on the banks of that intersection. That is why, obviously, the old stadium was known as "Three Rivers." It is a spectacular, modern venue with open views through the south endzone of the rivers and the downtown skyline.
Downtown plays home to a thriving theatre district, great hotels, good restaurants, the History Center and Strip District. The History Center has an awesome two-floor sports display that captures all of sports history, from marbles to NFL and everything in between. Did you know that there's a Marble Championship? I didn't, but now I do. And now I have that cool little tidbit of knowledge to share with people. Ever wonder about Heinz Ketchup? You'll find everything you ever wanted to know - and a bunch of stuff you didn't - in the museum.
The Strip District sits just a block away and is laid out with the coolest, hippest bars and restaurants, including the legendary Primanti Brothers. The Primanti Sandwich, a local legend, comes loaded with anything and everything, including fried potatoes. You gotta try one of these babies. Check 'em out online at www.primantibros.com. As I was walking around and enjoying Downtown, I stumbled into a bar called Mark's. Nothing special, just a cool little spot to hang out - except on gameday. That's because it just so happens that Mark's shuts down the whole operation to go out and tailgate in the lots. They bring the food, the staff, the kitchen crew - and they feed any and all. Cool place, and cool guys!
Over on the North Shore, home to the Carnegie Science Center, the Pirates' PNC Park and the Steelers' Heinz Field, you'll find awesome bars, nightclubs, restaurants and hotels. Jerome Bettis actually has a restaurant right across the street from Heinz Field called Grill 36. It's a great place to grab an IC Light before, during and after the game - or any time you're around. It's got an ultra-modern vibe with televisions everywhere, and was really hopping when we were there. I'm always looking on a menu for stuff I've never seen before, and I could not pass up the Fried Italian Hoagie. Yes - an Italian Hoagie, tempura battered and deep fried. It was amazing!
For the guys, make sure you don't miss a visit to the bathroom in Grill 36. The urinals are lined up along a wall that has a two way mirror from the inside. No need to miss a single play of the game. You can sprinkle and look out at the entire bar while you're at it. Pretty cool! (Sorry ladies - it's a guy thing.)
There are quite a few "Pittsburgh Only" things to do, and a ride on the 130 year old Duquesne Incline (or Duquesne Death Trap, as my 14 year old calls it) tops the list. This bit of engineering history and pop culture gem (featured in the opening scene of Flashdance) opened in 1877 as a way to get cargo and passengers from the downtown area to the neighborhoods at the top of Mt. Washington. In recent years, it has been ranked 2nd Most Beautiful View and 3rd Most Romantic Spot in America.
Another sure bet is a visit to the Iron City Brewery. Located just on the edge of downtown, Iron City Brewing Company has been serving Pittsburgh's favorite hometown beer since 1861, making them the second oldest brewery in the United States - behind Yuengling. They have a great selection of brews, but are best known for their Iron City Beer and the IC Light. The brewery itself has an awesome Tap Room where visitors can go in to sample the beer and get a real history lesson at the same time. Iron City has been the Official Beer of the Steel Town for over 145 years! In the tailgate lot on Sundays, they roll out an old school delivery truck and sample beer during the party. Truly hospitable people, and great beer!
I got into town on Thursday night and was able to squeeze in all that, along with a couple naps and picturesque walks along the riverside trails. When the weekend arrived, with the University of Pittsburgh playing a home game Saturday, and the Steelers taking on the Texans on Sunday, I was all geared up for two tailgates in two days.
As for Pitt, forget about it! Pitt has more than 100 years of football and is only one of five current NCAA Division 1 teams to have won multiple championships in football and basketball. Plus, 86 Pitt players have been chosen as First-Team All-American, and the Panthers have won nine National Football Championships! Some of the greatest players and coaches of all time have come out of Pitt, including Pop Warner, Jack Sutherland, Joe Schmidt, Mike Ditka, Tony Dorsett, Hugh Green, Mark May, Dan Marino and Larry Fitzgerald, just to name a few. So, I was all pumped up for this game, but especially the tailgate because the Panthers share the spectacular Heinz Field with the Steelers. It just couldn't get any better!
Grabbing my camera and a cup of coffee, I took off for a walk down the river toward the stadium. There were boats docked all the way - sometimes three deep - and people were tailgating from their boats along the shore just outside Heinz. "Sterngating." Fantastic. Obviously, I stopped and hung awhile. These guys will show up Friday night, dock and tailgate through Sunday's game. They sleep on the boats and don't have to worry about parking. It's a very cool set-up, and a festive ambiance they've created down along the river walk.
Just up from the river is the parking lot or "tailgate turf." I walked up the bank to the smell of breakfast on the grill. Tailgaters were serving everything from breakfast burritos to Kolaches, and even a drink called Liquid Sunshine. It was clear, in a mason jar, and unavailable for purchase, if you know what I mean. But, they told me that I wouldn't need coffee if I indulged, and they were right! Corn Hole, Flip Cup and good food - the Pitt tailgate rocked. Pitt actually had the home field win against Buffalo that night, so the town was really alive. My walk back to the RV along the river and through the Strip District was electrifying, and I was ready to do it all over again on Sunday.
Hooking up with a great tailgater is key to a successful stadium visit, and fortunately I was invited to tailgate with some good friends who happen to be some of the best. Dan and Cathy, with their killer Steelers fan van, were parked right across the aisle from the Iron City truck. (I don't think that's by accident.) We all enjoyed the great beer samples, and Dan and Ted cooked up some rockin' food! The Steeler Nation was out in force. It was the first game of the year, Pitt had won the night before, and the weather was clear and sunny! It had the makings of a perfect day!
One of my passions is food, and I have a real hard time out in the lots because I tend to overeat. It's easy to do, right? Well, Pittsburgh was no exception! I had hash brown dip, grilled sausages, beer can chicken, some phenomenal cheese soup, deep fried pickles, and Dan and Ted served up some cheesesteaks that put the eastsiders to shame!
Of course, for me, I had to get some pierogies from Pierogies Plus. They are THE Pittsburgh food you must have whenever you're in town. Pierogies Plus is located in McKees Rocks, just a few miles west of the stadium. But if you go, just ask anyone to point you toward "The Pierogie Lady." I stop by this tiny shop every time I am passing through, and load up the freezer with a variety of pierogies. These tasty dumplings are filled with potatoes and whatever else you want stuffed inside - sausage, jalapenos, cheese. And "love." You can even order them online at www.pierogiesplus.com. They are the perfect tailgate food, heated up and served with melted butter and sauteed onions. No Steelers game is complete without them.
On the way into the stadium, we stopped to check out a new tailgate game some of our neighbors had invented. You play with dice, and everyone throws in a buck. Each player chooses a helmet, places it on the board, and the race is on. It's just like those old horse racing games, where everyone takes turns rolling the dice, and if you are #5, and a 5 comes up on the dice, then you move your piece forward. It's very simple, but very fun. These guys had a huge board out in the lot, with mini football helmets from various teams for the markers, and giant dice. I donated more than a few bucks to that tailgate before moving on.
Inside, the party continued. Heinz is an open, active place to see a game, with areas for fans to move around, mingle, have a beer or get something hot off the grill. Pittsburgh played awesome and the crowd was way into the game. After a Steeler victory, everyone headed back out into the lots to celebrate again. A few beers and some more food later, I decided it was time to call it a weekend. After all, Pitt won, the Steelers won, the fall weather was perfect, the tailgates were off the hook, and my football season was off to a great start. Final call on Pittsburgh - put it on your short list of top tailgate travel destinations!
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Of Tailgater Monthly Magazine
